Luís Onofre – “My roots are everything.”
He has made shoes for names such as Michelle Obama, Queen Letizia and Paris Hilton, but says that what truly motivates him is “the idea of making shoes for women with stories”. His own story is influenced by his grandfather, who used to deliver the shoes he made to customers in the surrounding area on a small Lambretta scooter. Luís Onofre, a prominent name in the national and international luxury footwear scene, took the time to chat with Villas&Golfe.
Do you still remember the very first pair of shoes you designed? What were they like?
Yes, I remember them perfectly. They were a very colourful women’s model, with high heels and classic lines, but already sporting the touch of sophistication that I have always endeavoured to impart. At the time, I wanted to create something that respected family tradition, but with a more contemporary language.
The Luís Onofre brand is a legacy with a family history. To what extent do your roots shape the entrepreneur you are today, but also the man beyond his studio?
My roots are everything. I grew up watching my grandmother and my father working on shoes with an infectious passion. From an early age this taught me the value of dedication, exactitude and know-how. Today, even when making the most strategic decisions, these lessons are still present.
Have there been any difficulties or events in the course of your career that you feel have made you stronger, both from a business and a human point of view?
Yes, there have been several challenging moments. Indeed, working in a highly export-driven sector and in a small company means that challenges are a daily occurrence. The 2008 financial crisis was particularly difficult. It forced us to rethink the way we were operating and how we positioned ourselves in the international market. The pandemic proved to be equally significant. The war in Ukraine has also had an effect on business, as historically Russia has been a very important market. We have had to overcome all manner of adversity in the footwear sector. If there is one thing that sets us apart, it is precisely this resilience.
“[…] the know-how that has been accumulated is a skill that we would never dare waste.”
In an area as competitive as fashion industry, how do you balance the creative side with the demands of the industry, financial management and brand strategy?
It is a balance that we build with each day that passes. Creativity is at the heart of the brand, but it would never survive without a solid structure behind it. In fact, in a company like mine, that has been around for three generations, the know-how that has been accumulated is a skill that we would never dare waste. I believe that the beauty of fashion also lies in being able to transform a creative idea into a viable, desirable and lasting product.
You have made shoes for first ladies, artists and international figures. But is there anyone in particular or any specific moment that you still dream of creating footwear for?
More than any particular figure, what motivates me is the idea of making shoes for women with stories. I like the elegance that comes from confidence, from the subtle power that a shoe can convey. I have had the privilege of making shoes for prominent women, such as Queen Letizia and Michelle Obama, but what gives me the greatest pleasure is being able to empower women all over the world.
What do you find most challenging about heading up creative teams: being a constant source of inspiration or managing different personalities and talents?
Both of these are challenging but also extremely rewarding. Managing talent requires sensitivity and flexibility – every creative person works at their own pace, has their own references, their own silent moments. Inspiring others often means giving them space to bring something new to the process. I try to lead by actively listening, fostering an environment where everyone feels part of the process. Creation is always a team endeavour.
“More than any particular figure, what motivates me is the idea of making shoes for women with stories.”
What habit or ritual in your daily life, which you believe is essential to maintaining your balance, could you never do without?
Starting the day early, preferably at the sea and surfing, because this is what gives me the peace of mind that I need to face a new day. Unfortunately, I find myself with less and less time to do this.
Is there an activity or an interest that has nothing to do with fashion that revives and inspires the designer Luís Onofre?
Surfing, without a doubt. Then travelling, experiencing new realities, new worlds, new people. Given the frenzied pace of fashion, I need to find balance and new sources of inspiration. Often, an idea for a detail or a silhouette comes precisely in those moments of taking a break and contemplation.
What are the small pleasures you indulge in on a daily basis, which are true luxuries for you?
Family and friends are our greatest luxury. For this reason, a good wine at the dinner table with friends, time with family, are simple yet meaningful moments that I try not to underestimate.
Are there any brands and/or accessories that you particularly like, other than shoes? It could be anything from fashion to cars to watches...
I am passionate about anything that oozes design and creativity.
“I try to lead by actively listening, fostering an environment where everyone feels part of the process.”
Is there any ‘outside the box’ project that you are developing or would like to develop in the future?
Yes, I am very excited about a project that combines two of my passions: design and golf. We are launching a range of premium golf shoes that combines the technical comfort required by this sport with the aesthetic DNA of the Luís Onofre brand. This is a segment that is still largely unexplored in terms of luxury and sophistication, and we believe there is a very interesting opportunity for growth there. The intention is to bring elegance to the fairway with fine materials, innovative technology and, of course, our trademark craftsmanship.
Text: Carla Martins
Photography: Ana Nogueira