Chef Gil Fernandes - «Nature is my greatest source of inspiration.»
The unique landscape around the Fortaleza do Guincho provides the source of inspiration for every dish he creates, rubberstamping the fact that the sea is truly at the heart of his cuisine. Three to four times a week, he sets off to forage seaweed and sea plants from the rocks, ingredients which form a key part of his creative process. In a conversation that ‘smacks of the sea and nature’, Gil Fernandes speaks a little about the man behind the chef and shares with Villas&Golfe his love of gastronomy related to the oceans.
Tell us a little about how your love of cooking came about and your career in this field.
My passion for cooking arose in a very natural way. I grew up in Ribamar, in the Oeste area of Portugal, between my father’s vegetable garden and my mother’s pastry shop, so I always enjoyed direct contact with produce, whether in the ground or in the oven. But there was also a very strong influence from my paternal grandmother, who would take me out to the countryside to forage for aromatic and medicinal herbs. This is when my curiosity and respect for everything natural, seasonal and authentic came about. There was also an episode that had a profound impact on me: when I was about 10 years old, I decided to make dinner for my family. It wasn’t exactly a success, but I remember the laughter around the table. That was when I realised the power food can have, not only to feed us, but also to create moments.
How does the unique landscape around Fortaleza do Guincho directly influence your creative process in the kitchen?
The landscape around Fortaleza do Guincho is much more than just a beautiful backdrop. Every day when I first arrive, I look out at the sea, at how strong the wind is, at the light that changes every hour. This directly influences the way I come up with dishes. There is a raw, almost untameable energy here that forces me to look for balance, subtlety, but also authenticity. While not exactly the same, there are many similarities between this landscape and the place where I grew up, in Ribamar. So, cooking here in Guincho is like creating in my natural habitat.
“[…] cooking here in Guincho is like creating in my natural habitat”.
You often go out yourself to look for some marine ingredients that you incorporate into your dishes, such as seaweed. What makes you do this, how do you go about it, and how do you make sure they are at their freshest and of the finest quality when they reach the table?
I go out on the rocks three or four times a week, depending on the tides. Foragingfor seaweed and sea plants is part of my creative process; I need to feel the product at its source in order to be able to work with it authentically. I only pick what is ‘ripe’, at the right moment, and only as much as I know I am going to use, in sensible amounts. Respecting the cycle of nature is as important as any cooking technique. The seaweed is immediately chilled and arrives in the kitchen with the same freshness and intensity that it had when it came out of the sea. It is this direct connection to the local area that I want to bring to the plate.
The approach you take in your cuisine combines contemporary style, tradition and sustainability. How do you strike a balance between technique and environmental responsibility in your daily work?
It may not be the quickest or most direct route, but it’s the only one that makes sense to me and my team. Taking this approach requires time, listening and commitment to the process. The relationship with producers is strategic in this equation, and in particular with Quinta do Pisão, with which we have a truly circular relationship, which even involves a composting process: organic waste from Fortaleza is used to fertilise the land at the Quinta estate, which in turn provides us with a large part of the vegetable produce we use in the kitchen.
Is there any traditional Portuguese recipe that you have reinvented in a special way, which has a story or memory behind it that is in some way connected to the Guincho landscape or your own experience?
Yes, the dish ‘Cabo da Roca: Lírio, Tomates, Chorão das Praias’ (‘Cape Roca: Amberjack, Tomatoes, Hottentot-Fig’) is the result of one such story, of how this territory touches me and how I expressed it in the dish.
Throughout your career in the restaurant, has there been a moment or dish that you consider to have been a turning point — something that reaffirmed the identity of Fortaleza do Guincho?
Yes, ‘As Domingueiras: Wreckfish, Cabbage, Cozido à Portuguesa Broth’—a reinterpretation of cozido à portuguesa (a traditional meat and vegetable stew), which is part of the memory of every Portuguese person and which brought that Portuguese identity back to the kitchen at Guincho.
The dishes that you serve are as visually striking as they are tasty. What visual elements – colour, texture, presentation – do you believe to be essential and enjoy experimenting with the most?
Nature is my greatest source of inspiration – in colours, shapes, textures and even in that perfect geometry that we sometimes find without actually noticing it. Observing the world around me, whether at sea, in a rural landscape or even on a simple walk, provides me with ideas for creating dishes that are visually appealing, yes, but which also have a meaning behind them. I like to explore the contrast between elements – vibrant colours, unexpected textures, balanced compositions that respect the space on the plate. The presentation should complement the dish, not distract from it. At the end of the day, the goal is for each creation to respect the product, to tell a story and pique your curiosity even before the first bite.
«Foraging for seaweed and sea plants is part of my creative process; I need to feel the product at its source in order to be able to work with it authentically.»
Thinking about the future of gastronomy and culture revolving around the sea, what are your expectations or goals for the next 5–10 years at Fortaleza do Guincho and in your career as a chef?
The sea is at the very core of my cuisine and will continue to be so. In the coming years, my greatest ambition is to further develop my knowledge of and relationship with the sea, not only as a source of ingredients, but also as an ecosystem that we need to understand, respect and protect. I would like to contribute to a more conscious and sustainable approach to gastronomy that is connected to the sea […]. In particular, I want to continue exploring the potential of seaweed, which is a vast universe and still little used in Portugal. […] Who knows, maybe even contribute to the development of a sea garden in the Guincho area, which would improve these ecosystems and create a sustainable production model based on scientific knowledge.
When you welcome a guest who is visiting Fortaleza do Guincho for the first time, what do you most want them to take away from the experience: the flavour, the memory or the emotion of the moment?
I want the guest to take away all three: the flavour, the memory and the emotion. These are the elements that, together, define the true culinary experience. In addition to this, it is essential that they also get a feel for what haute cuisine and Portuguese hospitality are all about. At Fortaleza do Guincho, we work to ensure that every detail, from the dish to the service, reflects this marriage of technical excellence and genuine hospitality.
When you’re not in the kitchen, in which ways do you like to relax and where do you go to find new inspiration — whether through travel, art, music or even contact with nature? Like almost all chefs, I work long hours and have a very tight schedule, so when I have some free time, I especially like to rest and enjoy time with family and friends. This is the balance that helps me replenish my energy. From time to time, I take the opportunity to travel and seek inspiration in other cultures and flavours. And whenever I can, I like to grab my bodyboard and catch some waves.
What other area, interest or activity makes Gil Fernandes, the man, not the chef, tick?
Travel, without a doubt. Exploring other cultures, new landscapes, different ways of living, eating and being, that gets me really excited. I like to experience the world with all my senses, and it’s precisely when I go travelling that I often find new ideas, not only for my cooking, but also for life. Bodyboarding is also part of me. And, of course, football. I’m one of those people who gets carried away by the game, by the thrills, the strategy, the team spirit. It gives me that burst of energy and enthusiasm that ends up being reflected in other areas of my life.
