Chef Júlia Oliveira – Getting divorced gave me an inner strength that I never thought I would have.
Surrounded by walls steeped in history and a kitchen where tradition is treated with affection, Júlia Oliveira has built much more than a successful restaurant. At Mosteiro, in The Lince, the chef found the perfect setting in which to establish a deeply Portuguese culinary identity, founded on sharing, memory and fondness – the same values that have always guided her life and career. Today, Mosteiro reflects her particular style: a venue where quality can be felt at the table, family is the place where everything begins and ends, and success stems from consistency, authenticity, and a genuine love for cooking.
Your culinary journey has been marked by consistency and identity. When you look back, what moments have proved decisive in shaping the chef Júlia Oliveira you are today?
In all honesty, the decisive moment was when I separated from my partner. That was a very challenging period in my life because I had two young children, and I had been in a relationship that had left me feeling completely stifled. Getting divorced gave me an inner strength that I never thought I would have. I started to fight for myself and truly realised that I was capable of so much. I began to get a lot of praise from my guests, and my restaurant – at the time, Restaurante Dona Júlia, in Braga – began to develop more valuable qualities, which led me to where I am today. In the meantime, through no fault of my own, the restaurant was sold, and the owner of The Lince, who was already a loyal customer of mine, invited me to create Mosteiro. At a time when I was going through a bout of depression, this challenge helped me greatly to rekindle my self-esteem.
Passion for cooking often arises from memories. Is there a particular moment, flavour or ritual that sparked this interest and still influences your cooking today?
To this day, I still don’t really understand the reason why, as I have no formal training in this area. It all began when I was still a child. We were emigrants and my parents had to work, so I, the eldest of the siblings, was forced to start cooking. And I think I always had a natural gift for cooking. My siblings were all growing up and I ended up being the one who organised family celebrations, because my mother, unfortunately, became quite ill. Then, when I got married, at a very young age, my husband and I decided to open a restaurant in an old house that my mother-in-law owned at the time. And that’s how my journey in the restaurant business began. At first, I served ‘petiscos’ or snacks, and customers started to develop a taste for them. People began queuing up to get a table, and soon I was serving people from Braga, Guimarães... In a space where people ate standing up, with a plate in their hands. At the time, we were considered the new kids on the block. Then we opened a more modern space, and started serving a dish of the day, then with a menu, and I managed to get to where I am today. My personal brand was established right after my separation.
Mosteiro offers a new challenge in a setting steeped in history. What attracted you to this project in The Lince?
What really appealed to me was the history of the building. I have always had a passion for history, for everything connected to our ancestors, for stone... and that is what made me want to be here, the space itself. I helped to create the menu, a traditional Portuguese menu, designed for sharing, and today I work at Mosteiro restaurant under my own name. The restaurant was packed from the very beginning and today Mosteiro has practically become independent from the actual hotel. I have regained my self-esteem thanks to this project. I came to realise that I am truly a fighter and today I am so happy and satisfied with my life. And there are many new projects on the way.
How would you describe the process of creating a gastronomic concept that respects the heritage of the space, but at the same time reflects your personal style as a chef?
It was easy for me because it was already part of me. I had been working that way for 20 years, and it had always proved very successful. It was just a matter of fitting it to the new context. People began to realise I was here and started coming to see me. That’s when I realised that I was also a brand.
«I have regained my self-esteem thanks to this project [Mosteiro]. I came to realise that I am truly a fighter [...].»
What dishes really stand out at Mosteiro? And what kind of experience do you want guests to take away with them?
I love playing around with traditional Portuguese starters. And I’ve had some funny stories with guests. For example, Tozé Brito came here a few months ago to eat with his sister, and I went over to their table to ask if he’d enjoyed his meal. I had made some ‘batatas à espanhola’ potatoes. He stood up crying, hugged me and said, “Thank you, I had lunch with my mother today. My mother passed away 30 years ago, but today I was reminded of exactly what my mother’s cooking used to taste like.” Compliments like these are the best thing anyone can give me. If I managed to achieve that, it was because it really was good. The dishes that stand out most at Mosteiro are the kid and veal; in essence, these are dishes for sharing and for the family, which is what Mosteiro also represents. But there are others, such as sea bass rice, which we sell a lot of, and aged meats.
When it comes to luxury in the kitchen, what does it really mean? Rare ingredients, technique, time, emotion, or all of these things together?
For me, the answer is love. It has to be love. That’s what I tell my staff; I teach in the same way that I work. I like to pass on my passion to the kids. If we work with passion and love, anything is possible. It’s about handling food as if it were something fragile, transporting it delicately, transforming it with care.
«The dishes that stand out most at Mosteiro are the kid and veal; in essence, these are dishes for sharing and for the family, which is what Mosteiro also represents.»
Looking to the future, what avenues would you still like to explore as a chef?
I’m always on the lookout for new dishes, new traditions. I read a lot; I spend a lot of time looking for old books on traditional Portuguese cuisine. I want to do more and do it better. I feel like I’ve reached a stage in my life where everything has fallen into place. I’m in a beautiful venue, my name is becoming well known and I get to see my customers regularly, which is also a joy for me. Coming home and being with my family, everyday life.
What is a true luxury for you in your daily life – both inside and outside the kitchen?
A luxury for me is spending time with guests, being able to be with the people I love most.
When you’re not cooking, how do you like to spend your time?
My free time is for travelling and trying new flavours. I really enjoy eating, and eating and drinking are a great pleasure in my life. This is what inspires me to keep going.
Are there any rituals that are part of your routine and help you stay focused, creative and feeling good?
Compliments from guests make me feel good. Going into the dining room and having guests start clapping is my vitamin, it always has been. Praise gives me the strength to keep going in the restaurant business.
«Compliments from guests make me feel good. Going into the dining room and having guests start clapping is my vitamin, it always has been.»
Text: Carla Martins
Photos: Ana Nogueira