«I believe I will live in other countries besides Portugal, because I need to.»

Pure Transmontano, in his eyes and words. His childhood memories of growing up in Vila Real, growing up in a poor family, are evident in a speech filled with stories and travels, but one that never forgets his origins. In two years, Vitor Matos went from two to five Michelin stars, becoming Portugal's most awarded chef of all time. Arroz de cabidela (rice with blood), cozido à portuguesa (Portuguese stew), and roast goat remain his favorite dishes.

Tell us a little about your story… How did your love for cooking and desire to become a professional come about?
The beginning of my professional history has to do with my origins. I'm from Trás-os-Montes, Vila Real, and was born in a village called Jorjais, where we lived off the fields and livestock, into a very poor family. Our roofs were made of straw, and the nutrition was very poor. There was no sugar, no meat, just lots of vegetables. But we were happy; I think I was much happier than I am now [...]. At the age of ten, I went to Switzerland and became an emigrant. My childhood memories, the lack of my grandmother's campfires, the lack of friends—these memories make the gastronomy very rich but at the same time very poor. And this feeling of lack of food in my childhood leads me to a second phase, when I go to Switzerland, where I have everything and more and experience that sense of discovery. I ate my first chocolate when I was ten. My mother was a cook in Switzerland, and my connection with cooking also has a lot to do with that, it has to do with these memories.

Throughout your career, what experiences have had the greatest impact on you?
Initially, my parents didn't want me to be a cook because they thought it wasn't a profession worthy of the studies I was doing. I even went to university and dropped out, thinking it wasn't for me. From the age of 15 to 18, I completed my vocational training in Switzerland and managed to get internships in the kitchen, but it wasn't easy. I had to fight hard because, unfortunately, the chefs I worked for were xenophobic; they mistreated me, kicked me, pulled my ears—I was abused daily, verbally and physically. I even saw a psychologist because I couldn't face all those problems. I think all of this strengthened me, and I often cry thinking about the past. [...] Interestingly, and because I'm stubborn and don't let myself give up, a friend and I were the best students in Switzerland in culinary practice that year, which gave us access to the National Culinary Center, where we participated with the best young people in the world in the field. I finished seventh, ahead of countries like Japan, which have incredible training. It was a difficult beginning, with three years of internship, many problems, difficult schedules, walking for an hour every day because I had no transportation to get home, in the snow, but all these difficulties shaped who I am today, both personally and professionally. Then, I came to Portugal at 19. I started looking for work and took my first steps.

He received several distinctions along the way and recently made history as the Portuguese chef with the most Michelin stars, accumulating five in total. What do these distinctions mean?
The next day I woke up normally. This didn't change anything in my life. It doesn't change our lives; it's a misconception. It only changes one thing: it brings notoriety to our teams and our projects. Above all, it gives balance and breathing room to the business. A star is a huge asset in business, and no business survives without money; that's the reality. I'm very happy because my teams worked hard, they're focused, they live this, they breathe this, and for them, the star is also very important. And that's what matters: the recognition. I'm just one guy behind the project and the team. This recognition is very good […] also for Portugal, because it increasingly attracts tourists who travel to eat.

What distinguishes a dish by Chef Vitor Matos? What are his main influences?
I feel like my travels are increasingly influencing me. Memories of a place, memories of something I ate. I love eating in Spain at a friend's restaurant, "As Garzas," a super quiet and peaceful restaurant, right on the seafront, where I feel at home. It's one of the places that influences me greatly because of the fish, well-cooked fish, and the deep cuisine. It's memories that bring us ideas. From Marrakech, the spices... Three weeks ago, I was in Bangkok, a complicated city that overwhelms us, that absorbs us. But I came away with memories of its flavors.

When preparing your meals, do you prioritize seasonal and local produce? Do you regularly shop at the market?
I don't do that anymore, but when I was in Porto, at Le Meridien, I would go to Mercado do Bom Sucesso. Now, my teams take care of that. What I increasingly prioritize in my kitchen is fish, seafood from our coast, flavors that take us on a journey—Nordic, Asian, and Brazilian.

What sets Portugal apart when it comes to gastronomy and products?
We have the best fish in the world. We have a deeply rooted culture of good sausages, good meats, good breads, good cereals. What is ours is unique. Our sea is incredible, our seafood is incredible. The best chefs in the world use our fish and seafood. Not to mention the wines... We have Port wine, unique in the world, but we are increasingly starting to make a name for ourselves in wine. We are a small country, but we are a country of conquerors and poets; we must continue to take what is ours beyond our borders.

Does a good chef necessarily need a good team?
Always. There's no good chef without a good team; there's no other way to be. I don't even need to answer anything else.

What's your favorite dish? What do you most enjoy making and eating?
My three favorite dishes, because I can't choose between them, are arroz de cabidela (rice with blood), cozido à portuguesa (Portuguese stew), and roast goat. These are three dishes I travel to, if necessary, just for. I'll travel 300 km to eat a good cabidela. From what I enjoy in my kitchen, I can say I love a good Imperador (fish stew), which is a sublime fish cooked with aromatic steam and spices. The simplicity of the product is incredible; it's topped with fleur de sel and nothing else, just the flavor of the fish itself. The essentiality of the product is increasingly important, and what we add can elevate it and not spoil it.

What do you like to do in your spare time? Who is Vitor Matos besides cooking?
I used to be someone who bought and read cookbooks. Currently, I'm a wine collector. But these days, I can't have any hobbies, and I don't even have time to eat out. I believe that, in the natural order of things, I'll want to travel more and more. Travel to forget and to have experiences outside of Portugal. I believe I'll live in countries other than Portugal, because I need to.

You currently live in Vila Real, in the interior of the country. Is this where you find balance?
Yes. I returned to the village where I was born, built a house in the middle of nowhere, far from everything, where I don't hear any noise, only my dogs.

What plans do you have for the future?
I've dreamed of having my own little place, professionally. But sometimes I change my mind. Right now, I'm going to continue what I'm doing. It would be unfair to the teams and everyone to throw in the towel after so much work. And there are one or two projects that also deserve to reach a higher level. I'm fully convinced that two of the restaurants where I consult will also reach their second Michelin star.

Text: Carla Martins
Photos: Ana Nogueira