VillaseGolfe
· Beverage · · T. Joana Rebelo · P. Nuno Almendra

Casa Havaneza

The cult of the cigar

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Largo do Chiado is home to one of the oldest cigar shops in the world. Ever since 1864, it has seen the life of Lisbon’s city centre pass by, garnering a true legacy within its doors. Yes, this is the tobacconist’s of Portuguese literary classics, which has served as the setting for illustrious books and as the home of the city’s first public telegraph. It’s no coincidence that Casa Havaneza is considered a monument of national interest.
The idea to sell pure Cuban cigars in the heart of Lisbon came from François Caen and Charles Vanderin, two Belgians. When exactly they opened their shop to the public remains unclear however. The Casa Haveneza’s history can be counted back to 1864, the year Henrique Burnay took over the management and set the business in motion. This was almost half a century before A Brasileira, the famous café, was opened next door, and Portugal was a different country at the time. Chiado belonged to the elite and intellectuals. It was, in fact, the Chiado of The Maias, which Eça de Queirós came to portray: «On one corner, vagrants in rags were smoking, and on the opposite corner, in the Havanesa, other vagrants were also smoking, in overcoats, politicking.» Like Eça, Ramalho Ortigão, Guerra Junqueiro and José Cardoso Pires were also inspired by the tobacconist’s for settings in their writing. Today, the corner of the Havaneza is no longer a political meeting place, although it continues to attract people from all over with its famous Cuban cigars, the casa’s core business.

One of the oldest cigar shops in the world
The interior is filled with curved displays and rounded corner showcases. In between them is some 70s furniture. In a matter of seconds, you can see the premium habanos, various brands of cigars, mini Cubanos, cigarettes, cigarillos and all kinds of smoking accessories – from papers to pipes. Whisky, champagne, port wine and an extraordinary wine collection are other options that extend Casa Havaneza’s range, which is favoured for its knowledgeable and informed service. The hedonistic corner focuses on selling cult products, a task that Luis-Javier Bosch, the tobacconist’s commercial director, says requires extra care. Cigars, for example, need to be chilled to between 16 and 18 degrees so that they don’t absorb flavours, as they work like sponges. There are more than 250 types of Cuban cigars on sale, in different sizes, prices and flavours. There are options for both a 15-minute and a two-and-a-half-hour experience. «In the past, cigars were an elitist and stereotyped product,» Luis-Javier tells us, but not now. The consumer tends to be younger, with the female public having a greater presence. And because «when in Rome...», all that remains is to enjoy a habano with a certain leisure, a certain mysticism and a great deal of mastery. With all five senses heightened, we squeeze the habano close to our ear to make sure it makes the right noise. The next step is to press it between your thumb and forefinger to make sure it’s firm, but not too hard to the touch. The flavour and colour are chosen and when it comes to lighting it, there are secrets too: we light it with an odourless flame and give it time to burn correctly and evenly. Inhaling gently until the smoke reaches the mouth, the subtle flavours of Cuba become a delight for the smoker.
Joana Rebelo
T. Joana Rebelo
P. Nuno Almendra
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