How did you deal with managing restaurants during the pandemic?
I coped in a frightened way, because we had never been through a situation like it before. To suddenly have zero reservations is very strange. The salaries had to be paid. Fortunately, we pay our taxes, we had our invoices, the government helped where it could help... It was difficult, but I didn’t give up anyone from my team, and that’s what’s important.
Was it a period that also served to reinvent yourself?
A little. In gastronomic terms, I wasn’t all that successful, as I took a gamble on take-away. The economic aspect wasn’t our strong point either, although it made us think: «If we’re going to get through this, we’ll get through anything. » It made us reflect on the need to create solutions that can protect us in situations of distress.
Describe Portuguese gastronomy.
Portuguese gastronomy is flavour, memory and tradition. It is very eclectic. It has the best fish and shellfish in the world. The Portuguese grill, stew, roast, braise... and then there’s great produce. Nobody has fish like us, in terms of variety and flavour, thanks to the very cold Portuguese waters, packed with seaweed. We also have great vegetables and some native breeds. In meat, we’re not the best in the world, but there is good quality meat. A very powerful characteristic of Portuguese gastronomy is reinvention. It’s an old tradition, and has been done for many years. It’s funny that we’re known, for example, for our cod, when it’s not even our product, but we create various recipes using it.
What we eat says a lot about us?
We are very much what we eat. It’s no accident that when we go abroad [as Portuguese people], we immediately miss Portuguese food. It’s a cuisine that leaves its mark. Any tourist that visits us today goes crazy about our food.
What criteria do you adopt for the selection of ingredients in your restaurants?
There’s one thing you just have to have in the restaurant sector, and that is to have a large base of suppliers and employees. We can’t let people down; payments have to be on time and we have to be coordinated. I’ve always paid well and on time. I have created a network based on trust and honesty, and so they have to give me the best product. I don’t need to go to the market because I have a good network of suppliers. It is the market that comes to us, otherwise we would be wretched, we already work 14 hours a day. So, I am shrewd, and demanding of the supplier.
Is nutritional value a factor that you always take into account when preparing a menu?
Of course. If the menu only includes carbohydrates, the client will «roll out» at the end of the meal. And, that really isn’t what we want. The food needs to be something about which, at the end, you can say: «I’m light, but satisfied». In fact, a rich dish needs a sauce, a protein and a garnish, not a lot of carbs and fat. My view of cuisine now is as natural and as little manipulated as possible.
When you received the news that you had just won your first Michelin star, how did you feel?
I felt proud of myself and my team. When I won the second Michelin star, it was the same. The day I win the third, I will feel the same pride. We are working hard for this. The Michelin star is still a prize, but my greatest achievement are the guests I have.
In what aspects does a two-star restaurant differ from a three-star restaurant?
What sets them apart is always the food. You have to make food that is different, beautiful, appetising and with a lot of flavour. And, if you can do things that others can’t, all the better. So, dishes that are «outside the box», that make the menu different. And, excellent service is inherent to any good restaurant. Today, service has to be very good and interactive with guests. The staff we have, for example, are well-trained. The wines served have to be at the right temperature, in accordance with the menu. Combining all this, you work your way to the top. In our case, we just need to achieve that third Michelin star.
Portuguese gastronomy has the best fish and shellfish in the world
