The value of luxury

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Luxury is an endless, controversial field that has always been the object of study for philosophers and authors due to the curiosity it arouses around its existence. The definitions surrounding it are boundless. Formal dictionaries state that it is the «ostentation of wealth», «any good or object of high cost». Voltaire viewed luxury as a symbol of a nation’s growth, while Rousseau argued that it was the idleness and vanity of man, corrupting morals and undermining virtue. The phrase, «Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity» also became well-known in Coco Chanel’s speeches. In addition to the countless meanings, it is worth comparing the symbolism of luxury today with that of the dawn of humanity. In the beginning, it was about spirit. It didn’t begin with high-priced goods or glitz, but rather through generosity, a relationship of reciprocity that luxury symbolised between the worldly and the transcendent. The gods were offered talismans and objects of worship which, no matter how precious, had no monetary value. And this is how it remained until antiquity, when the bonds of sharing were transformed into relationships of subordination.

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To this day, the concept of the word implies rarity, materialism and opulence, as well as the codes and behaviours associated with it. However, the mutations that the word has undergone are astonishing. If asked, different people will give different notions of luxury. For many, it means breathing fresh air, far from the city and in the heart of nature. For others, it’s the smell of wet wood or the unmistakable scent of the sea. Some say it’s the detail of a hand-embroidered linen napkin, the experience of parachuting or being barefoot in the garden, with time to avoid making plans. Perhaps the new luxury is not so much about having as it is about being, perhaps this is the new paradigm. But addressing such a complex subject in words seems restrictive, so we invited two well-known public figures to represent the most intimate and personal concept of luxury through a photograph. Between the «ideal machine» and jewellery as a «symbol of art», let’s take a look at the reflections of acclaimed photographer Alfredo Cunha and Mónica Seabra, one of Portugal’s leading specialists in the luxury segment.

Alfredo Cunha
I don’t have the luxury of luxuries.
I’ve been working with different equipment since 1973, I’m a photographer who likes cameras, but Leica has always been present in my working life. It may seem like a luxury, but it isn’t, these are just high-precision photographic tools that are very necessary for my work.
For as long as I can remember, I’ve been looking for the ideal camera... I always think it will be the next one! Maybe I’ve already had several... That’s the role of Leica in my life, to be the ideal camera, and it has been, at least I don’t feel comfortable if I don’t have it around.
Today, there are Leicas that are real collector pieces and worth millions. Mine is valuable for the images I manage to get with it. More than 50 years of travelling...
This 1975 photograph with a Leica M3 and a 50mm lens, which still works today and is compatible with current cameras, is proof that it’s not a luxury, it’s a work tool.
And so, long live luxury.

P. Alfredo Cunha

Alfredo Cunha

Mónica Seabra
Today, when people talk about luxury, they talk about experiences. But luxury, in all its forms, has never ceased to be an experience. What is jewellery if not an exceptional object that indulges our senses? It’s pure delight. A work of art with which we adorn our bodies, enhancing who we are. For me, a piece of jewellery is the ultimate symbol of a luxury object. It serves no basic need, it has no function other than to serve the superlative needs that humans possess and which distinguish them from other animals - from the need to contemplate, to appreciate, to pursue the EXTRA-ordinary, the beautiful, the sublime, refinement, comfort... Even the most miserable beggar has an idea of luxury, as Shakespeare once said.
The piece of jewellery I decided to associate with the concept of luxury is a tribute to the explorer Vasco da Gama and the bridge that bears his name and crosses Lisbon. A fusion of architecture, jewellery and Portugal. The stone, a sublime blue aquamarine, evokes the Portuguese sea and the River Tagus. The piece is called simply VASCO and was designed by the French jeweller Cipriano Martins, who lives in Fontainebleau. It is a different look at the symbols of the country that is also in his blood. A piece of jewellery is a perfect balance between technique and art. A human triumph in technique, a symbol of art in creativity and a miracle of nature in stones that tell ancient stories.

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Mónica Seabra

P. Laurentfau

VASCO jewellery

A changing concept